Thursday, 19 June 2014

Kwaheri Kenya

On the way to Nairobi, I stopped at the equator. There are many curio shops there where you can buy all sorts of African souvenirs. 

Buying things in a shop like this is an experience. You walk up and are immediately surrounded by ten shop owners trying to lure you into their shop.  Rudy's friend has a shop there, so I started with hers.  The shops are basically wooden stalls. As soon as you walk into a shop, the other shop owners quietly congregate outside the shop. 

I walked into Carol's shop and started looking at things.  I found a few things that I wanted. Then comes the interesting part: negotiation.  

The shop owner writes down the price that he or she wants, and you have to negotiate to a fair price.  I have found that as long as you give a price with a smile on your face, a shop owner doesn't get offended.  I left Carol's shop with a few things, including a pair of beaded flip flops.  These are now referred to as my equator shoes.  

I went into a few other curio shops and got a few more things.  And then James, my driver, and I were on our way.  

I had to nip back to Nanyuki to get a bit of money and also to say goodbye to Sammy.  

Just after leaving Nanyuki, I realized that I had still not had any mahindi choma. Nataka mahindi choma/ I want grilled corn. This sweet corn is slow roasted on the streets and normally readily available during the week.  It was Saturday. 


James and I were both on the constant lookout for mahindi choma for the 4 hours that it took to get from Nanyuki to Nairobi.  Finally just as we entered Nairobi I spotted two men walking and eating some! I burst out saying "Mahindi choma!!!!"   



I was satisfied with my 20 shilling purchase!  Sooooo good.  

Next came waiting at Nairobi airport where I met an Italian family.  When I asked the boy what his favorite animal that he saw was, he responded "Bambi."   His mother explained this was the impala.  We both cracked up! Of all the animals that he had seen, he loved the impala. 


The flight was fine, as was the transfer in Zurich.  I was a bit overwhelmed at everything.  It has been a bit of culture shock coming back.  

I got back on Sunday, and Monday drove off with my rotation group to Kent to do our farm animal rotation. No rest for the vet!   

Until next time.....

Friday, 13 June 2014

Time


Large herd of Grevy's on Lewa
During my last few days here in Kenya, I have been working very hard on the Hartebeest project.  I have been glued to the microscope.



Auscultating Hope, Nicky beside us 


I have also gone to see the baby rhinos again for continued monitoring.  The babies have gotten used to my scent I guess, because they are not quite as inquisitive with me as they once were.  Kilifi has gotten quite used to me auscultating him with the stethoscope, mainly because I have discovered where he likes to be scratched.  He now stands still for me to have a listen to his heart, lungs, and belly.  I know the only reason he does this is because he gets scratches and attention, but it is still an amazing experience. 
Auscultating Kilifi

On the way back from the babies, we drove past the airstrip on Lewa.  Mutinda stopped the car and starts laughing.  I look over at the airstrip and see a bull elephant just standing on the runway.  He has all of Lewa to hang out on, but he decides that the airstrip is the best.  Can you imagine being diverted from landing due to an elephant on the runway? 
Sleepy Kilifi resting on Nicky
It brought up the memory of when I almost killed Mutinda with laughter.  We were talking about how horses get hurt frequently.  I said, “You give a horse an acre by acre field to graze in.  There is nothing but lush grass in it.  But if you put one nail in the corner of the yard, the horse will find it and hurt himself.  Statistically, there is such a low probability of anyone ever finding the nail again, but the horse can.”  I thought Mutinda was going to cry he was laughing so hard. 

After lunch with Mike and Sarah Watson the other day, Mike gave me a ride back to the office.  We were walking up to the offices and Elvis, who was grazing nearby, decided that we were interesting.  Mike told me to stop; so we both stopped in our tracks.  He then said, “Run.”  A fraction of a second after he said this, Elvis picked up a trot towards us.  We bolted into headquarters with a black rhino trotting after us. 


Elvis then hung out in headquarters, making the phrase “Stuck at the office” a reality. 

Today I start my journey back to England.  I leave Lewa and head to Nanyuki.  There are a few things that I need in Nanyuki, so I will spend a few hours there.  I will then head off to Nairobi.  My flight is not until late in the evening, so I will have a long wait at the airport.   

Amazing view on Lewa

Time is different in Kenya. 

The unit of a minute is different here.  One minute in Kenya is actually 10 minutes based on the conventional time unit.  Five minutes is 20 minutes. 


During my time here, I heard the phrase, “Westerners have watches and clocks, and Kenyans have time.”  Now that my adventure is coming to an end I truly believe that.  I am amazed at how, despite how slow times seems here, it disappears just as fast.  One month, gone in a blink of an eye.  I truly believe that you must live every minute, or 10 minutes, to the fullest.  

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Fun filled week


Isiolo
What a fun filled week!

So Monday we headed off to Samburu.  We were going to see a Grevy’s zebra and an elephant. 

You can definitely feel the temperature change as you go down in altitude.  When preparing for Samburu, I always pack extra water.  I was drinking lots of water on the way down in preparation for the heat. 
Thanks Mum and Dad for an awesome water bottle.  Mum note the Emergen-C! 


We arrived in Samburu National Park and made our way to where the Grevy’s were.  The Grevy’s Trust was there to show us which Grevy’s zebra we were working with.  Our goal was to remove the tracking collar from one female, and place another tracking collar on another female. 
Disoriented Grevy's bumps into our car

Mutinda successfully darted the first Grevy’s zebra.  She was reluctant to go down.  She went down, and we all jumped out the vehicle to work on her.  Suddenly she stood back up.  She was very disoriented and walked into our truck and bumped into it.  The guards ran over and put a towel over her eyes and were able to pull her to the ground.  I moved into action very quickly.  I placed eye lube and monitored respirations, they removed the collar, I drew blood for diagnostics if needed and also to get a supply of healthy Grevy’s blood so we can get the normal values for a healthy Grevy’s, and we poured water on her to help keep her from overheating.  And the antidote was in.  She was down for a total of 4 minutes.  Exhilarating. 
Removing the Tracking Collar

 Mathenge repositioned the car so we could then immobilize the second Grevy’s.  The dart was successful and she collapsed to the ground very quickly.  



We ran over and performed the same procedure; Tim took bloods, the Grevy’s team placed her tracking collar, we poured water on her, I monitored respirations and put eye lube in her eyes.   And the antidote was in.  She woke up well, but was unsure of what was around her neck.  She bucked and ran around for a few minutes whilst the rest of the herd looked at her. 





After working with Grevy’s with EB and Katie in 2012, it has been so wonderful to be able to work with a few of them whilst here on this trip. 

And we were off, no rest for the vet!  We drove deeper into Samburu National Reserve and found the team that was locating the elephant we were going to be placing a tracking collar on.  The elephants had gone out of sight, and he was searching desperately for them!  We made our way to the Save the Elephants headquarters to have lunch and to wait for the elephant to be found.  It was lovely to sit and chat with the Save the Elephants team. 
An onlooker


I must describe their toilet.  It is an outside hut, which has a view of the river.  So you widdle while watching the river.  This time, there was a bull elephant on the other side of river.  I literally thought to myself “I am widdling in Africa, watching an elephant walk through the river.”  I think there was an oddly large smile on my face when I left the toilet. 

Administering Eye Lube


The elephant was found, in her herd of about 30.  We slowly crept in with the truck and Mutinda successfully immobilized her.  She walked around for about 5 minutes, and then gracefully (as gracefully as an elephant looks) sunk to the ground.  We were on the ground.  I was pulling her trunk straight and placing a twig in the opening of her nares.  I ran around back of her and sprayed antibiotic spray on the dart wound.  I poured some more water on her.  I went and applied eye lube to her eyes.  The eye lube adds moisture to the eye and helps protects the eye from the hot sun.  I went back to hold her trunk straight, as she kept trying to curl it up.  Others were placing her tracking collar, taking measurements of her, pouring more water on her, and Tim was taking bloods.  Suddenly we were done.  She was standing one minute after the antidote was given.  We watched her try to shake and pull her tracking collar off with her trunk.  I wonder what animals think when they awake with a tracking device around their necks.  They get used to it fairly quickly, but the first moments that they feel it is interesting to watch. 
Keeping her airway open 
What a day! 

On the way to find the elephant, we had taken a slight detour to examine a bush that was reported to have a lion cub in it.  This was the bush where the Lioness that was killed by a snake bite was found.  We were sure that it was her cub that we had not been able to locate.  We slowly drove around and around the bush, but saw no signs of any lion cub.  On our way back out of Samburu National Reserve, we took a second look at the bush.  Mike, a guard, hopped out of the car and had a closer look.  She was in there!  I was only able to see a small amount of movement, but she was there!  The sun was going down, and we had no way to transport her, so we made a plan to come back in the morning. 
Baby lion feet


So Tuesday morning we head off with a plan to capture a lion cub.  The truck was filled with a chainsaw to clear the brush, netting to try and contain the cub if she ran, a box to transport her in, and various other things.  We made it back to the bush where she was seen and I slipped on my leather gloves.  Mutinda asked me to squeeze in the bush to grab her.  In I went.  As I approached, she kept her eyes fixed on me and slightly moved backwards.  This movement was just enough for Mike, the guard, on the other side of the bush to grab her!  We had her!  A 4-6 week old cub, dehydrated, and skinny, but we had her! I have such respect for her.  She has survived 2 weeks by herself.  She does not know how to hunt.  How she is alive is beyond me! 


We gave her a quick inspection and decided to put her in the box so we could get her out of the hot Samburu sun.  And we were off again, back to Lewa!  It all happened so fast!  We had expected much more of a “bonanza” as Mutinda put it! 
We stopped off in Isiolo to buy a liver for her.  We knew she is mainly still nursing from her mother, but we wanted to offer a bit more.  I even bought a baby bottle to be able to try and nurse her.

So much respect for this fierce little girl!

The plan was for her to stay at Lewa for a few days to recuperate and then go off to a new home.  However, once back at Lewa, we were able to place her into a new sanctuary, so we head off to Nanyuki to deliver a lion cub.

Now as far as directions speaking: Lewa to Samburu 1.5 hours both ways and Lewa to Nanyuki is 1 hour both ways.  We were in the car a lot yesterday!  But we made it to Nanyuki and delivered a scared, wild, lion cub.  It was a wonderful close to a story. 

This morning I awoke to the calls of lions.  What an utterly amazing sound that sends chills through my body.  Today I am working in the lab on my samples.  My time here in Africa is coming to an end.  I wonder what other adventures I will experience before heading back to England. 


Sunday, 8 June 2014

The Handshake...

My dinner
Different cultures have different ways of greeting each other.  Some kiss on one cheek, others kiss on both cheeks.  Then the Dutch go all out and kiss 3 times.  Some cultures hug and some cultures wave hello.  The Kenyans shake hands. 
Carol and my dinner :) 

This greeting is done frequently.  When someone walks into a room, everyone’s hand is shaken.  When someone comes up to the truck to have a conversation with the driver, everyone’s hand gets shaken; even the people in the back of the truck.  The handshake is genuine and firm.  Sometimes it is a straightforward handshake.  Sometimes it includes a choreographed routine.  This is hard to describe.  First step is a normal handshake.  Secondly is a quick movement of hands to be grasping the other person’s hand.  Thirdly, the hands switch back to a normal handshake.  I have not been able to determine when this handshake is coming, so normally I look a bit silly when I pull away before the time.  I must say that when I do get to use this handshake, I feel like I am preforming a secret handshake in a secret society.   
Elephant taking water
Handshaking is done all the time.  There is even an alternate handshake used when your hands are dirty.  In this case, you simply offer up your right forearm to be shaken. 

Itty Bitty Babies!
Shaking hands has become very normal.  I actually feel left out if I don’t receive a handshake.
Sunset on Sunday night

This weekend has been pleasant.  I have been up early to go and examine our baby orphan black rhinos after an adult black rhino attacked them on Thursday.  See “When babies get hurt”.  The two injured rhinos, Kilifi and Nicky, have markedly improved.  I went to see them this morning and decided only Nicky needed medications.  I swiftly injected him whilst he was suckling his bottle.  I joked with Sarah that no one would believe that it was that easy to inject a rhino.  She said that I had mastered the technique.

Sundowner on Sunday night
I was able to do some lab work, but the heat of the day combined with early starts to the days led to a few naps.  Naps are so essential sometimes.

Saturday, 7 June 2014

When Babies get hurt….


In the field…in the Mobile Vet Unit

So Thursday was spent setting up the lab.  I was preparing for my hartebeest project. It felt good, and like old times, to be in the lab.  Tim, Mathenge, and I went to the field to collect samples.  It took us about 2 hours to find the Hartebeests.  They are remarkably well camouflaged, as are most of the species here.  We were only able to collect 1 fecal sample, but it was a start.  Whilst we were finishing up in the field, so much commotion started on the walkie-talkie system.  So many people were talking.  I kept catching some words.  I figured out that Elvis (the rhino in the hut) had attacked the 3 orphan rhino babies that I have gone to see two times.

Jackal I saw on the way to see the baby rhinos

There was no hesitation in my voice when I said “Yes” when Mathenge asked if I wanted to go and look at the babies. Mutinda was at a meeting in Nanyuki, so I suddenly became the “vet” on site.  We left the field and rushed over to where the attack happened.

I was expecting one or two other vehicles at the scene, but there were 6 or so vehicles, and so many people looking concerned.  It reminded me of people around a car accident, waiting for help to arrive.  It dawned on me that they were waiting for me, the “vet”. The heads of Lewa, rangers, and others surrounded Kilifi.  The other 2 orphans had been led back to their safe nighttime enclosure.  I saw the Mike (CEO of Lewa) and Sarah (his wife) look up, and the look of utter concern on their face hit me head on. 
 
Kilifi's left side, note the bruising
Right, I need a history of what happened.  I found out that Kilifi had been hit and tossed numerous by the adult Elvis.  He had been unable to get up for a while after the attack, but had just risen.  He had shown signs of shock, shaking, increased respiratory patterns, and stupor.  He remained reluctant to walk. 

I began to think about what I would want to do for Kilifi.  Pain meds were on my mind, but what anti-inflammatories does the Vet Mobile Unit have on it.  I didn’t want a steroid, I wanted a non steroidal for this baby.  The next thing I know, someone who was currently on the phone with Mutinda, said to me,  “20ml Flunixin”.  Perfect.  So I start sifting through the drug box, trying to find the Flunixin.  Found the bottle….10 mls left.  Well that will have to do for now.  Next thing I know, another message from Mutinda says give Betamox (antibiotic).  Nope, can’t, our bottle is empty.  Next message, Norodine (antibiotic).  Right, we have that. 

I head towards Kilifi with the Flunixin.  He is standing, wobbly and a bit out of it.  I stick the needle into his muscle, and slowly inject the Flunixin.  He resents me a bit, but nothing horrible.  Right, his keepers want to get him to his enclosure before the sun set, which was already on it's way.   So we make our way to their enclosure.  I get a look at the other 2 orphans, Nicky (the blind older one).  He looks a bit beat up, walking stiffly, and not wanting to put weight on his back right.  He is once again protecting Hope (the middle aged orphan).  I think he needs an anti-inflammatory, but he is going to be difficult to inject because all of the orphans are agitated, and we are out of the drug.  I think to myself that I will look at him early in the morning and make a decision. 

Back to Kilifi, I place the needle in his muscle again to give him the antibiotics, and he screams, bolts, and panics.  Immediately, the other 2 went on guard, screaming and running towards us.  We remove the needle and call it a night without administering the antibiotics.  It is not worth getting bulled over by 3 baby rhino.  Babies ranging from 150kg to 400kg. 

Sunrise - Epically stunning


Friday morning, I woke up at 530am to see the rhinos again.  I had spoken to Mutinda the night before about what possible treatments I would give Friday morning.  I wanted to be there for the first bottle of the morning, when the rhino were still sleepy, cold, and really hungry.  I must say that I did have Mathenge stop the truck just so I fully witness the sunrise.  How stunning.  The mix of colors.  Breathtaking.  I once again felt so small, but so utterly important.  It really is a confounding feeling.

Kilifi was feeling better, but still sore.  I administered the remaining part of his anti-inflammatory drug.  Nicky was still moving slowly and was sore.  He had had difficulty lying down. I weighed the pros and cons.  I opted to wait on giving him drugs to see how he fared through the day. 

Sunrise after visiting Kilifi the first morning after the attack


Since Mutinda was at a meeting in Nanyuki, Brono, a vet from neighboring Meru came to evaluate the rhino.  I was out in the field (see below) when he arrived, but we communicated our findings over the phone whilst I sat in the field looking at my Hartebeests.  I was so grateful for his help, as rhino medicine is quite new to me.  He agreed to continue the anti-inflammatory on Kilifi for a few more days and to hold off on giving the antibiotic.  We also agreed that we did not want to have to sedate Nicky to be able to give him an anti-inflammatory.  We both decided to wait and see how he did overnight, but I would reevaluate him in the morning with a possible injection of anti-inflammatory.  I asked if he thought that it would be possible to give the injection.  His exact response was  “You will encounter resistance though.”

Nicky, after the attack. Nothing visible except abrasions on his skin. 
This phrase made me chuckle.  We knew that resistance was going to be a factor, hence why we held off on giving the medication before.  We didn’t want to have to sedate him to give him the drug.  However, in the morning (when the rhino are cold, sleepy, and hungry) we might have a chance.  I thought about how I wanted to approach the situation in the morning.  Yes, do Nicky first whilst he was on his bottle.  Then do the easier, but still incredibly strong, Kilifi. 

So this morning, once again, I was off before sunrise.  I arrived and took a brief history on how Nicky had been doing.  I decided that he did need some pain control.  I talked with Sarah and we agreed that we should inject Nicky first, then Kilifi.  Sarah is  experienced in rhinos.  I told Sarah that rhino behavior is not my forte, and I will keep going until she tells me to stop.  She tells me that I will know when to get out.  We shared a chuckle.

Nicky's back

Directions for the feeding protocol were divvied up between the guards.  Sarah delegated who was going to feed who, how quickly they were going to let the babies nurse (to ensure that Kilifi still had milk when I went to inject him), where we were going to stand, and what I was doing.  We all spread out in the enclosure and I waited for Sarah to give me the ok.  Nicky took to his bottle and I swiftly inserted a needle in his gluteal muscle, ready the whole time to jump back and bolt.  He had no reaction.  I then went to inject the drug.  I injected steadily over about 10 seconds.  No reaction.  I pulled the needle out and stepped back.  I looked up at Sarah and smiled.  Well that was easy.  Now to Kilifi.  The procedure went exactly the same way.  I was done in a total time of 2 minutes.  We then stood back.  I looked at Mike and Sarah and said, “Well that went well”.  We had all been expecting a fight and we were all very relieved that our morning was not started with a fight.

I went to check on the babies at noon today, just to see how things were going.  So I went out with Sumbere (since Mathenge is off this weekend) to the babies.  The babies had been taken out of the enclosure for a short walk and to graze.  They were still fairly close to their enclosure.  On a normal day, they are out from Sunrise to sunset grazing in the fields with guards.  

Nicky has had a marked improvement.  He wallowed in the mud, wallowing a good judge of how rhinos are feeling; if rhinos feel poorly, they tend not to wallow.  He still has some very sore areas, but I will repeat his dose of anti-inflammatory tomorrow morning.  Kilifi is doing well also.  He had wallowed in the mud as well.  I spent about 10 minutes auscultating his chest.  There was a concern in the morning, and it took me a bit to find where Mutinda kept the stethoscope (locked away in a non obvious box).  It was so cool.  I kept looking around thinking, “I am in Africa, in the bush, with stethoscopes, listening to the breathing of a rhino.”  I also auscultated Hope; the uninjured baby to get a sense of what is normal to hear in a rhino.  Hope was not injured because Nicky protected her.  I called Brono whilst with the babies just to give an update.  We are both pleased with their progress. 

I will head out tomorrow morning to see the babies again to repeat their doses of dawa (medication).  I hope everything goes as smoothly as it did today. 


Territorial Male Hartebeest
And on a further note about my field work yesterday….

So yesterday I went out to the field to find my 11 Hartebeests.  We found them quite quickly, about 30 minutes from camp.  When we arrived all but one was on the ground sleeping.  Over the next 20 minutes, we crept as close as we could from them without startling them.  We ended up being able to be about 20 meters from them, so much closer than I could have imagined with this flighty species.  I then attempted to document all the different individuals in the herd; I achieved 9 out of 11.  We then patiently waited for them to arise, knowing that they would defecate once they stood up. 

Within 5 minutes of them standing up, all of them had defecated.  I was snapping photos, scribbling data down (i.e. time, location photo, id photo, etc.) They slowly walked off to another location, and we went to work.  I must say at this point, I really missed EB. 

Hartebeests


When EB and I worked on Grevy’s Zebra, one of the steps was collecting individual stool samples.  We had to know which individual stool we were collecting.  EB would stay at the car and give me directions, based on the photograph taken, to the stool.  I would collect, and then label the bag based on what she told me. 

We had a system, and it worked well.  She was good at determining where the stool was from the photograph, and giving directions, and I was good at following her instructions. 

I had Mathenge and Tim helping me in the field.  We decided that they would go to the field to retrieve the samples, and I would give directions over the walkie-talkie to them.  They were amazing, and were able to find so many samples! However, because so many animals defecated within feet of each other, it made very difficult to accurately differentiate the actual individual whose stool it was.  We were able to find 9 of the 11 that defecated!  We have samples from 80% of the herd! It is fantastic. 

Tim came to help me process the samples in the lab.  We worked for 2 hours and had the tests set up.  We then took a trip to the human clinic to use their centrifuge.  I read samples into the night.  Something felt right about being in the lab, I felt at home.  Yet, there was something that felt wrong about being in the lab without EB and Katie. It was a strange feeling.  Home and homeless.

Lab at the end of the setting up all my samples

 My busy day yesterday concluded with girly giggle talk with Ruwy next door.

What a perfect end to yesterday and a perfect start to today. 

Let me see where tomorrow leads me…